I feel a rational obligation to first geographically describe to you the northern Kenya; that is if you do not know it.
Well, northern Kenya is vast. Actually, apart from my theoretical geography classes done thousands of kilometers away from here, I haven’t physically been to every part of it. But, I have been to most parts of Marsabit County. In fact, I reside in Loiyangalani town.
This my town, which is a kilometer from the shores of Lake Turkana, one of the world’s rarest desert and alkaline lakes, is the Head quarter of Loiyangalani Sub-County in Marsabit County. It is approximately 264 Km from Marsabit town and almost 700 Km from Nairobi, the capital city of Kenya. From Nairobi city, the tarmac road ends at Laisamis trading center. Then, from Laisamis to Loiyangalani, a 240 Km stretch, is murrum road, full of rocks with some places full of sand and mountainous regions.
There are intermittent rivers that get full when it occasionally rains on the adjacent mountains. Here, these rivers are called Laga. When these Lagas decide to get some life, they sweep anything on their way including a third of the earth’s surface. And once they are back to their dead state, they leave behind huge landscape of sand and logs of trees.
Most parts in the northern Kenya are semi-desert while a smaller part is in the hot Chalbi desert. Being a desert zone, there is a dry season throughout the year, with an exception of Mount Kulal and some hilly zones that occasionally experience some drops of rain. It is a windy zone with climatic temperature that ranges from 30˚C to 45˚C. Water is very scarce in this region. Hence there are several scattered thorny trees serving as the only vegetation in the area. There is also the presence of wild animals like ostriches, giraffes, antelopes, snakes, monkeys, desert hawks, cheaters, mongoose, squirrels, etc.
Now you have an idea of the area. Back to our “bus-sing” story.
The Marsabit- Loiyangalani route is served only by one Bus Company, the Loiyangalani Coach. Like any other bus company, the reservation of the ticket is done prior to the journey. If not, you are likely to miss a seat. And you know what? Your money will be taken but will stand throughout the journey.
Again, like any other upcountry bus trip, the passengers share endless stories. It is nice to see how people in the bus are unified despite their different ethnic or social backgrounds. Story telling unites us all! But there are those who want to dominate the story-telling sessions.
Yet there are certain things that make this Loiyangalani Coach bus trip very exceptional compared to the ones from the capital city to western Kenya regions.
First, is the luggage inside the bus. Here, the isle of the bus has other special luggage on it. These are mainly bags of sugar and rice. Passengers step on them in and out of the bus without any problem. The only problem is; if you are new to this system, you will find it strange! And that makes you the problem. I am sufficiently informed that they are loaded a day prior to the voyage.
Second, are the passengers themselves. There are two ‘stuffs’ you will never miss in the hands of majority of us in the bus. These are leaves and sticks. You are wondering where do leaves and sticks come from in this desert zone. On one hand, most men will carry miraa leaves and chew them right from the beginning of the journey until the arrival at our destination, an eleven-hour voyage! Think of their jaws. On the other hand, majority of both men and women will be holding the sokotei sticks for brushing the teeth along the journey. Miraa and sokotei are special herbs. The former deals with the mental state while the later, dental state of a person.
Third, is the generosity of the passengers. Since from Marsabit towards Loiyangalani, one approaches the Chalbi desert, atmospheric temperature shoots up as the bus moves on. Those with heavy clothing start dropping them one by one. But amusingly, people start sharing bottles of water without fear of being drugged through the precious drink! In the area where I am born and bred, this cannot happen! Jamais! One is always very cautious of the neighbor-passenger.
Fourth, is the road itself. Only thirty minutes of the eleven-hour trip is done on a tarmacked road. The rest is granular, dry and not tamacked! Forget about the dust and the small flying stones as the bus travels this road. The most interesting part is that these roads are full of corrugation. The day you will be in a bus cruising beyond 50km/h on corrugation, please, try close your eyes and sit straight. I tell you, it’s a very nice experience. It is like that deep tissue massaging machine put on the back and vibrates on the muscles! Everything vibrates, and the whole body feels good and liberated!
Your next upcountry trip, please try the Loiyangalani route in a bus. It is the most exciting voyage if not in Kenya, then in the world! Long live Loiyangalani Coach.
